madrid – nouvel’s reina sophia/espacio minimo/churros y chocolate/color red


the atrium of jean nouvel’s new reina sophia… and a view of the outside from the street… dscn6688.jpg

we checked out espacio minimo — the gallery that shows liliana porter in spain — a first-rate gallery and a beautiful space. liliana’s work has always seemed a bit of an anomaly in their program, which can be pretty aggressive and even grotesque. admittedly, liliana’s work is not with out its perversity… but as i looked at the goya of saturn devouring his young at the prado, the aesthetic of the gallery and it’s place in the history of spain and spanish art made sense to me… (doctor fourquet, 17, madrid –

we had an excellent lunch with jose and luis at “samar kanda” in the estacion de atocha. the food was continentally-influenced and was fantastic. the room is slightly colonial and overlooks the beautiful “winter garden” of the train station. this is one of the very few restaurants in spain that isn’t over-lit. the central train station of madrid, where the the restaurant is located, was overhauled in 1992 by pritzker prize winner rafael moneo. the original glass and steel building was designed in the 1880’s by a spanish architect who allegedly had design advice from gustave eiffel.

luis and jose recommended a couple of restaurants and based on our experience at samar kandar, i trust their advice. make reservations. we tried to walk in and couldn’t get a table. “come prima” at calle echegara 7. “zerain” on pais vasco.

also, have churros y chocolate at “chocolatería san gines,” pasadizo de san gines, hours: 6p-7a m-sun.

& when you’re dying for something other than jamon – excellent indian food at “guru,” calle echegaray 21 @ c. del prado.

at one point tessa said, “wow, it’s so nice to be somewhere where the men wear real shoes.” they also wear red/orange trousers and can pull it off.dscn6706.jpg

shop for beautiful shoes (men and women) at “carmina shoemakers” – gran via 58, men’s clothes at “gallery” on calle jorge juan in barrio de salamanca, and women’s clothes at “ekseption” on calle velasquez.